Leaving Italy behind in the 1920s, Guiseppe Codognotto passed through Melbourne to find nowhere for Italians to eat and congregate. Resolving this, ‘The Italian workers’ club’ in Little Bourke Street was established and became the hub for Melbourne’s Italian migrant community. When Guiseppe moved the club to 23 Bourke Street in 1932, it became ‘The Italian Society’. Having run non stop as an Italian restaurant on the site ever since, The Society is one of Melbourne’s oldest Italian dining institutions.

Since the early days, the venue has undergone several incarnations. ‘Italian’ was dropped from the name in the 40s to avoid war time anti-Italian sentiment. During this time, many Italians, if they weren’t interned, headed to Lygon Street where a strong Italian community was developing. At this time, the Society’s appeal opened up to local Melbournians who came in to try, (many for their first time) the Italian food and hospitality provided by Guiseppe’s son Rino and daughter Rina.

In its glory days from the 40s through to the 80s, Rino became the well known face of The Society, and was one of Melbourne’s original ‘Spaghetti Mafia’, so named by the media for their role in bringing the finest Italian food and service to the city.

The Codognotto’s era ended when Rino retired in 1984. Since then it has seen name changes to La Republique Societé, Rhumbarella’s, back to The Society Cafe Wine Bar, until the DiMattina Group brought the venue back to its roots as The Society in April 2007.

Coined by the media, and credited with running Melbourne’s Italian food culture, the ‘Spaghetti Mafia’ was a close knit group of Italian restaurateurs who regularly dined together, sharing a passion for food and wine.

It included Rino Codognotto (The Society), David Triaca (Café D'Italia later The Latin), Lou and Joe Molina (The Imperial Hotel), Leon Massoni (The Florentino), Mario Virgona (Virgona's in Fitzroy) and Ferdie Vigano (Mario's). Ferdie Vigano was father to another Melbourne food legend, Mietta O'Donnell.